BIRDWATCHING IN CHIAPAS

Chiapas is rich in birdlife, owing to it’s diverse topography, from the humid climate of the Pacific coastal regions, through to the cloud forest pine-clad hills high up in the Altos de Chiapas around San Cristobal de las Casas, and the jungle regions of La Selva Lacandona in the south and along the frontier with Guatemala. 

 A large variety of beautiful hummingbirds can be seen throughout Chiapas, perhaps as you are taking coffee in a colonial courtyard in San Cristobal under the shade of a jacaranda tree, with it’s impressive shades of blue blossom.  Alternatively you may be lucky enough to see the marvellous sight of the Mountain Trogon as you pass through the cloud forest hills and indigineous Mayan villages in the pine forest regions of Los Altos.

 If visiting the spectacular waterfalls of Chiflon south of Comitan, then look out for the long-tailed Magpie Jay, with it’s resplendent blue colour and tufted head - high up in the tree tops.  Closer to the border with Guatemala and at lower altitudes than Comitan, you are likely to see large numbers of the Oriole family of birds, with their bright yellow breasts and black wings. 

 If venturing into more semi-tropical and tropical forest regions then of course you may have the lucky opportunity of seeing the stunnning Scarlet Macaw fly above you in the forest canopy - perhaps as you are marvelling at the Mayan paintings in the ruins of Bonampak, deep in the heart of La Selva Lacandona.

 Although not a dedicated birding trip, you may wish to consider a 6-day tour with Mangomextours, taking you to the lakes of Montebello, Chiflon and the outskirts of the rainforest regions of southern Mexico, where you will have ample opportunities to spot countless varieties of birdlife, and enjoy the other cultural and historical aspects of the tour at the same time. 

 Log onto the website below for further details :

www.mangomextours.com

ECOTOURISM IN CHIAPAS

The state of Chiapas, situated in south-west Mexico - is the poorest region of the country based on per capita earnings of the population, yet the richest in terms of biodervisity and breadth and extent of the fauna and flora of this beautiful country.   It is also a state with a wealth of cultural and linguistic traditions as a result of the varied indigenous peoples which inhabit this diverse land, from the now few in number lacandona, located in the lacandon rainforest, to the more numerous populations of tzeltal and tzotzil peoples scattered across much of Los Altos de Chiapas.  So will tourism benefit Chiapas and it’s people - or harm it?

Ecotourism has the aim of engaging local populations in the planning and growth of tourism within their own communities, and for this growth in tourism to be controlled and managed so that it minimizes any potential negative impact on the biodervisity of the region.   It is with this end in mind that local community projects in Tziscao, on the shores of Lake Tziscao in the national park area of Los Lagos de Montebello, were established in recent years.  Likewise similar locally-run tourist projects in Chiflon, a series of incredibly beautiful waterfalls south of Comitan - and more recently still in Las Nubes on the edges of La Selva Lacandona -have built tourist facilities which blend in with the natural environment and add to the economic potential of the local population. 

If you  wish to visit areas of outstanding natural beauty in Chiapas which chime with ecotourism concerns for the natural environment and the welfare of local indigenous populations - you may wish to consider a trip with Mangomextours.  They will organise your stay at Chiflon, Las Nubes and Tziscao and through this form of responsible ecotourism encourage local authorities, communities and tourists themselves to protect and sustain the biodervisity and beauty of the natural landscape in Chiapas.

For further information log onto the website below :

www.mangomextours.com

COMITAN DE DOMINGUEZ

Covered central market - Comitan Comitan de Dominguez is the first large town in Mexico you’ll arrive at if passing along the Pan-American Highway from the south through the highlands of Guatemala, two hours coach journey away.  It’s a colonial city with a laid-back charm and authentic Mexican feel, off the tourist track of the more established tourist companies, but all the more worth a visit for that reason.

 Comitan is built on a series of steep inclines and in the central district at least, many of the older colonial buildings remain intact, with beautiful courtyards and purple and red bougainvilleas draping over painted walls.  Comitan’s ‘plaza central’ has a frequently used bandstand in the middle of an ornate walk-through garden area, and you might wish to join the locals wandering around the square, listening to the sound of a marimba band, and spot the lingering Mariachi troupes touting for late-night trade.

Comitan has two main markets, the smaller central market just off the main square and the not-to-be missed enormous market just outside of town, on the boulevard principal or main road leading into and out of Comitan.  This latter market is always packed with traders selling their home-grown agricultural produce, from the variety of beans to chiles large and small, to nopales (cactus fruit), pomegranates and mangoes of all shapes and sizes.  But it might be the stalls with the bright and colourful pinatas which takes your eye, those ubiquitous papier-mache creations to be seen in any self-respecting Mexican family party.

Comitan’s hidden charms though are to be found in it’s various squares lined with trees and churches, and young and old partners smooching on park benches.  A particular favourite has to be the plaza de San Caralampio, with a sculpture of a jajuar, reputed to have been built on the spot of a natural spring.

 If you want to see for yourself a little of the ‘real’ Mexico then a visit to Comitan might be worth your while.  If travelling with Mangomextours you’ll also get a chance to travel with other like-minded independent travellers and enjoy the natural beauty of close-by sites such as the waterfalls at Chiflon or the impressive ‘Lagos de Montebello’ - a series of lakes surrounded by pine forests over hilly terrain close to the borders with Guatemala.  Log onto the website below for more details :

 www.mangomextours.com

CHIAPAS FOOD AND DRINK ….

As in the entire southern half of Mexico, the staple crop of Chiapas is of course maize, used to produce the basis of tortillas, tostadas, tacos, tamales, quesadillas and empanadas.  You will see fields in Chiapas full of this tall crop, and often roadside sellers enticing the tired driver with the sight and smell of freshly-picked corn-on-the-cob, slowly roasting on the coals.  The problem for the predominantly agricultural-based economy of Chiapas, as in other states of Mexico though, is that Mexican farmers face tough times in competition with the heavily-subsidised and therefore often cheaper US imports of this staple crop.  Buying local then is very definitely of direct benefit to people in Chiapas.

Sugar cane is grown in huge quantities in the vast fields in the lowland regions between Comitan and the state capital of Tuxtla Guttierez, and again locals will very often simply break open the bamboo-like cane to chew and suck on the sweet bark.  Sugar-cane is used to produce the strong alcoholic drink known as ‘aguadiente’, which is very definitely to be treated with caution if drinking the stuff! 

 Chiapas is the state most associated with the production of coffee in Mexico, as the climatic conditions and high altitudes are often perfect for the growth of this plant.  In San Cristobal de las Casas you should be able to purchase excellent quality coffee produced organically and grown by c0-operatives, guaranteeing that workers are both well-treated and rewarded with a fair share of any profits made.  Or even better, why not visit Tziscao in Los Lagos de Montebello - and buy direct from the co-operative in this small lakeside village producing their own organically-grown coffee. 

 Mango trees grow and prosper in many regions of Chiapas - and Comitan’s vast open market sells many varieties of this delicious fruit in their thousands when in season.  Coconut trees can be seen growing in the hot humid lands close to the borders of Guatemala and provide you with a delicious refreshing drink if bought from the co-operative sellers running the eco-friendly nature reserve at Chiflon, the site of incredibly beautiful waterfalls and area of outstanding natural beauty.

If you fancy tasting the food and drink of Chiapas then why not consider a 6-day tour with Mangomextours - visiting such places as Comitan, Chiflon and Los Lagos de Montebello, close to the borders of Guatemala.  Log onto the website below for more details :

 www.mangomextours.com

MARIMBA SOUNDS IN CHIAPAS

If there was one type of music most associated with Chiapas then it would have to be Marimba - the sound of often huge two-person xlyophone-style instruments, played in marimba bands with several marimbas of varying sizes and musical tones.  Both San Cristobal de las Casas and Comitan have a bandstand in their central square where on many an evening you will come across marimba groups playing to local audiences who will often join them on stage to dance to the folkloric music of this part of Mexico, passed down to them through the generations.  Of course the unofficial ‘hymno’ or anthem of Chiapas is the upbeat ’La Chiapaneca’ - always played with Marimba instruments and familiar to all Chiapanecans young and old.

 The actual origins of marimba are somewhat shrouded in mystery - but it is assumed by many experts to have African roots, having been transplanted to Latin America through the slave trade.  However it is the peoples of Guatemala (whose national instrument is the marimba) and southern Chiapas on it’s northern borders who most developed it’s use and made it into the sound and style we know today.  The wooden bars are normally made out of rosewood from the jungle regions of Chiapas and other tropical rainforest areas.  Marimba in the hands of expert players has the potential to seduce the listener into a meander of his or her own imaginings, on a humid but cooling evening under the shade of a jacaranda tree, passing away the hours and allowing the world to pass you by.

If you want to hear and experience some marimba sounds for yourself then try out a tour of Comitan and surrounding historical sites and areas of outstanding beauty - and you’re more than likely to come across marimba ‘en vivo’, played live in the central squares of pueblicitos and the colonial town of Comitan.  Click onto Mangomextours website below for further information :

www.mangomextours.com

LOS LAGOS DE MONTEBELLO

The lakes or “los lagos” de Montebello are located on the borders of Chiapas state and Guatemala - approximately an hour and a half’s bus journey from the colonial town of Comitan.  A series of spectacular lakes surrounded by pine forests on undulating hills is most definitely worth a visit from any visitor to Chiapas.  This region has 59 separate lakes of variable size, of which Lake Tziscao is but the largest and ‘el lago de los colores’ proving to be another favourite, famed for it’s varied colours forming in the water.

 Sadly, as in many areas of outstanding natural beauty throughout the world, los lagos de Montebello have suffered over recent years from man-made destruction of natural habitat, principally through deforestation, unsustainable farming methods and unregulated hunting and collection of wild orchids and other precious plants and animals throughout the region.  However Los Lagos does at least have the official protection of the Chiapas State as it is a national park - and any means of promoting sustainable tourism to the area is only going to help with the protection of this beautiful land in south-east Mexico for present and future visitors and inhabitants alike.

 Why not admire the birdlife, orchids and other wild flowers for yourself and visit this region of southern Chiapas.  You might like to hire a canoe in one of the lakes or alternatively prefer to cycle around the shores of the forested hills surrounding Tziscao, for example.  You might even be tempted to purchase some excellent organic coffee produced by a local Tziscao-based co-operative, which also serves to give further incentives to local communities to continue with organic sustainable farming methods, less likely to result in further deforestation and environmental damage.

 If you fancy a trip to Los Lagos de Montebello then consider perhaps a trip with Mangomextours - which will offer an overnight stay there as part of a six-day tour of the cultural and natural wonders of south-east Chiapas.  Log onto the website below for further details :

www.mangomextours.com

BUTTERFLIES IN CHIAPAS

Queen Butterfly ‘Danaus gilippus’ Swallowtails and metalmarks, brushfoots and skippers, hairstreaks, whites and yellows - Mexico truly is the Nirvana of the butterfly world! For sheer variety, colour and magnificence of ‘mariposas’ or butterflies to be seen- this must surely be a highlight of any tour of the country.  In Chiapas southern Mexico the jaw-dropping beauty of butterflies against the backdrop of dense jungle vegetation, Mayan pyramids and gushing waterfall is an experience to behold and commit to memory.

 In the lower hot regions of los lagos de Colon, close to the border with Guatemala you should see the striped yellow and black ‘Zebra heliconium’ in abundance, along with exsquisite small ‘Black-patched Bluemarks’.  The colonial town of Comitan  is rich in gliding three-tailed swallowtails - attracted very often to the bougainvillea pollen in the plazas, parks and gardens.  The queen of butterflies surely must be the brilliant shining blue of the massive common morpho, to be seen fluttering rapidly over the flowing river leading to the waterfalls at Chiflon.

 If you want to experience the butterflies for yourself then why not sign up to a six-day tour of southern Chiapas, centred on Comitan close to San Cristobal de las Casas.  Log onto the site below for more details and register your interest on the Contacts page.  You will also get a chance to see some of these magnificent mariposas for yourself on the Fauna & Flora page :

 www.mangomextours.com

MAYA CULTURE & LANGUAGE

Maya traditions and language continue to survive and prosper in many parts of Chiapas today, despite centuries of exploitation and subservience to the dominant Spanish-speaking and Spanish-descent population in this state of Mexico.  A visit to the large open-air market in San Cristobal will give you a flavour of this ‘other’ Mexico and to the colourful displays of the traditional and intricately hand-woven ‘huipiles’ of Maya women selling their freshly-grown fruit and vegetables, together with staple Maya crops of maize and beans.

La Fiesta de San Lorenzo, Town of ZinacantanSan Cristobal de las Casas is a key marketplace for the surrounding villages and towns in Los Altos de Chiapas.  It is nowadays mainly the women who maintain the traditional clothing and dress, and you should be able to differentiate the style and colours of towns such as Zinacantan for example, with those of Chamula.

 Tzeltal and Tzotzil Maya languages will be heard in the narrow crowded corridors of the market in San Cristobal - two indigineous languages stretching back centuries prior to the arrival of Hernan Cortes and the conquistadores in the early 16th century.

 Further south and in the streets leading to La plaza de San Caralampio in the colonial town of Comitan, you will no doubt see evidence of the tojolabal community on their way to and from the markets in town.  You should note the beautiful flowing blue and white dresses of the tojolabal ladies.  This community has kept it’s own language and although all Maya languages are thought to have a common ancestry, it is distinct from both Tzotzil and Tzeltal, the more widely spoken indigenous languages in Chiapas.

 Closer to the borders of Guatemala, in the area of los lagos de Colon and in the national park of los lagos de Montebello for example, you wil find many other Maya communities and languages, stemming in large part from a wave of immigrants fleeing from Guatemala during the 1980’s, in which tens of thousands of Maya people lost their lives as a result of the genocidal war on the indigineous population by the then leader of the country, General Rioss Montt.

 For a chance to see this ‘other’ Mexico for yourself then why not consider booking onto a six-day tour of the region, and help indeed to improve the economic andsituation of communities in Las Nubes, Chiflon and Tziscao.  Log onto the website below for further information :

www.mangomextours.com

THE MAYA IN CHIAPAS

Clearly the most famous Maya site in Chiapas is that of Palenque - a vast expanse of huge pyramids and temple complexes within the surrounding tropical rainforest.  This site was built up over hundreds of years but the height of Palenque’s highly artistic and archeological development is thought to have occurred in the years 600-800 A.D.  

However there are a whole myriad of other smaller-scale but nevertheless equally impressive Mayan remains throughout the state, including locations in close proximity to Comitan.  These include both Tenam Puente and Chinkultic, Mayan sites where you can roam around the pyramids and ball court complexes at your leisure, allowing your imagination to wander at the complexity and order of Maya society.

Ball Court at Tenam PuenteAs you cross the ball court in Tenam Puente you might wish to consider the as-yet still unclear rules of this ritualistic game, contemplate the viewing galleries on all sides and picture the combatants in elaborate costume and headress to distinguish one side from another, complete with protective gear such as knee-pad protection and footwear.

 Alternatively whilst at Chinkultic you might look down into the waters of the cenote from the heights of a temple and remember that the Mayans viewed cenotes as entrances to the underworld.  What was the relationship between the two sites of Chinkultic and Tenam Puente - and how often did they engage in trade?  Why were these two sites seemingly abandoned long before the arrival of the Spanish conquest?

Why not explore the Maya remains yourself - on a six-day tour of South-East Chiapas.  Log onto the website below for further details :

 www.mangomextours.com

CHIAPAS & THE ZAPATISTAS

The state of Chiapas is the base of the Zapatistas - or EZLN (Ejercito de Zapatistas de la Liberacion Nacional) which translates as the Zapatista Army for National Liberation.  At the start of 1994 - to coincide with the establishment of NAFTA (linking the Mexican economy to a free trade area with both the United States and Canada) a previously unknown movement the EZLN rose up in revolt in various towns and villages throughout Chiapas - briefly taking control of San Cristobal de las Casas, before the Mexican army regained control.

 So what and who are the EZLN?  Well - that depends on  your perspective and political views of course!  Many would argue strongly that the Zapatistas are principally engaged in a struggle to represent the indigenous and marginalised groups in Chiapas, who have found that their lands, cultural heritage and social structures are under real threat from the forces of globalisation and the unregulated dominance of the free market.  Others might argue that they represent a threat to the social  and political cohesion of the nation - although Zapatista leaders have never in fact called for a break-up of Mexico, but more autonomy and political power for indigenous communities within Chiapas.  Such local authority would be based on a more collectivised vision of society than the free marketeers and privatisation gurus have in mind for the richness and variety of Chiapas’ natural resources.

And El Sub?  Yes - he the man in the balaclava and the pipe - the one on the internet writing speeches from the jungles of Chiapas, the poet revolutionary…..  Known commonly as Subcomandante Marcos - his real name and identity is not known, but it is commonly assumed that he was a student during the revolutionary turmoil of the 1968 student uprisings and subsequent harsh counter-measures on the part of the Mexican government against student dissent.   A modern revolutionary perhaps?  Linking traditional socialist views on the economy and society with an up-to-date analysis of the importance of protecting the environment for present and future generations?  Or is he more of a straightforward old-fashioned Marxist-Leninist in his approach, viewing history in terms of the class struggle and the Marxist interpretation of the dialectic?  Decide for yourself - read his own words (look out for any links on the Blog here)  and the views other players have on him and the movement…. 

 Should the Zapatista issue stop me from visiting Chiapas?  Absolutely not!!  There is currently no actual fighting between the Mexican federal army and the Zapatistas due to a more or less permanent ceasefire and this has remained the case for many years now. 

 If interested in finding out more about the history and culture of the people of Chiapas - why not consider a trip on our ecotourism tour - log onto the website below for more details :

www.mangomextours.com

Hasta luego!

Next time - let’s explore another aspect of Chiapas - diverse in history, culture, cuisine, music and so much more….